hello swimmers. hello deli slices. hello for me, i am not you. when can we meet?
i'll tell you all the story of last sunday.
the phone happens at nine a.m. just after the sunlight woke me up. bennyboy is making my phone happen. downstairs, he says. buzz'imin, i do. he comes up, little dilly, after which, to the beach with our taichi! do it. fumbly sort of. forgotten a little. dude mistakes ben's hat and inhaler for trash, and throws it in his good samaritan bag. don't worry, ben got the shits back. okay, then coffee and coconut. i make the phone of my friend, kathy, happen. the waves look premium, i say. she says, i'll round up some wetsuits, and another board. i say, dream on sister, in my mind. (i said that because i didn't think the day would ever arrive that i would actually surf. too afraid of death by wave pummelation.) but here she is with a wetsuit for all, and boards for two. we eat some lentil shit that i punctuate my stove top with. i don't know what i mean by that. we get our wetsuits on. ben is wearing a wetsuit that fits a fellow about scott's size. his testicles, i believe, were smooshed. mine were, too. i am wearing a wetsuit of this fellow's g-friend. no matter. we make the short walk from my apartment to the beach with our surfboards. kathy and i paddle out, and she's telling me where i should lie on the board, and waves are getting in my mouth. i have not developed sea mouth yet. we paddle through a set, and when we get out far enough the ocean gives me a moment to gather myself. we just sit on our boards, out in the sea. simple. beautiful, perfect. just a buoyant board, wetsuits, and ocean. okay, here comes a set! i propeller my arms to turn this huge longboard around. and kathy yells, paddle paddle paddle harder! PADDLE! i'm giving it everything, and the wave goes right under me. next wave, kathy yells, paddle and all that again. i just gave that last one my all, so no paddle. the wave comes under me, and gently sets me into motion. i think, oh i can stand up now. i do that, and there you go. rode the fucking wave. the rest of the day for me was saturated with pleasure from that experience, and i feel no need to go on about it. benny caught some good ones. kathy, too. i got drunk later. and held my breath for 2 minutes 20 seconds. didn't know i could that.
thanks for reading.